<span class=Valentino Fall 2016; Martha Graham" class="post-image" loading="lazy" />
Valentino Fall 2016; Martha Graham

Loewe Fall 2016; Graham in Salem Shore, 1943

Jean Colonna Fall 2016; A barefoot Graham performing Immigrant: Steerage, Strike, c. 1928

Chanel Spring 2016 Haute Couture; Graham, 1932

Vionnet Spring 2016; Graham and dancers, 1932

Céline Spring 2016; Graham (left) and May O’Donnell in Appalachian Spring, 1945

Proenza Schouler Spring 2016; Graham in ruffles, 1945_

Christian Dior Fall 2015 Haute Couture; Graham in Phaedra, 1962

Graham, who gave her last performance as a dancer at 75, was known for the severe intensity of her technique, as well as her theatrical appearance, her masklike face crowned by jet-black hair.

François Nars has said the dramatic makeup look he created for Marc Jacobs’s Fall 2016 show was inspired in part by Graham, who was no stranger to fashion. Having started out designing her own costumes—many of jersey—she would later collaborate with designers including Halston and Calvin Klein. Graham’s preference for minimalism seemingly extended from movement to fashion. No pastel satin toe shoes for this dancer: “Her revolution against ballet’s prettiness and decadence was total,” noted critic Linde Howe-Beck.

Here, we pulled together eight looks from the current collections that Graham might have gravitated to.